When we decided that the current issue of Litushim would focus on the theme of “market,” it was clear to us that we would also seek to address, in one form or another, the environmental implications of the jewelry industry. Ever since the jeweler and inventor Matthew Boulton established the Soho Manufactory for objects and jewelry in Birmingham ,England, in the late 18th century, he strove to improve worker’s conditions out of concern for their health within a polluted industry. Throughout this process, the potential hazards inherent in the field’s production practices gradually began to come to light. Boulton, who amassed great wealth from his co-invention and patenting of the steam engine alongside James Watt, reinvested his fortune into the manufactory, rendering it technologically, architecturally, and ethically advanced – thereby ensuring his worker’s welfare alongside a contribution to the productivity of manufacturing.
Today, there is considerable knowledge about the health hazards involved in working with metals and goldsmithing technologies, alongside a growing awareness of the social and environmental toll of raw material extraction. In this essay, we aim to slightly shift the lens toward the material components of the jewelry industry within the contemporary global market, focusing particularly on the consequences of illegal metal and gemstone mining on both people and the environment. Finally, we list some local and international actions and approaches that one can join – or that may offer a starting point for further engagement – toward rethinking the role of contemporary jewelry as a tool for fostering conscious and sustainable creation.
Gold on the Table: Reflections on Mining and Conscious Making
Behind the gleam of a gold ring or the sparkle of a diamond lies a harsh reality. The jewelry industry, often associated with luxury, elegance, and abundance, is in fact entangled in some of the most destructive environmental and social practices. The mining of gold, silver, diamonds, and other precious stones frequently involves processes that deeply harm ecosystems, local communities, and the workers themselves. As these hazards become increasingly evident, the role of the contemporary jeweler is evolving – from that of an artist alone to that of a witness and a key figure in shaping a new vision of responsible and sustainable making.
Otto Künzli’s work Gold Makes Blind(1980) is one of the earliest jewelry pieces to address broader questions such as the market versus the environment. Although Künzli did not directly confront issues of pollution or mining, his decision to completely encase a gold bracelet in black rubber challenged the entire value system driving the jewelry market.
In recent years, more and more jewelers have begun to address and critique mining practices – highlighting their social aspects(colonialism, forced labor, child labor, ect.), environmental destruction (land and water degradation), and economic implications. For instance, Susie Ganch,who co-founded Radical Jewelry Makeover (RJM) and Ethical Metalsmiths with Christina Miller, initially trained as a field geologist mapping mining sites.Once she recognized the profession’s destructive potential, she redirected her focus – not only to educate herself about material sourcing in the jewelry field but to build a broad community of like-minded individuals seeking better, harm-free practices.
So what exactly are these massive harms that reach all the way to our jeweler’s workbenches? Gold mining, in particular, is notoriously destructive. According to estimates, producing just one gold ring can generate up to 20 tons of mining waste. The extraction process, which requires enormous amounts of water and energy, is often carried out in open-pit mines that leave massive scars on the landscape. The widespread use of toxic substances like mercury and cyanide contaminates soil and rivers, threatens wildlife, and exposes entire communities to chronic illness and long-term poverty (COSH!, 2023; WWF, 2022). In the Amazon, illegal mining has led to large-scale deforestation, harming Indigenous communities and sensitive ecosystems (CSIS, 2023).
Moreover, artisanal and small-scale gold mining (ASGM), which provides a livelihood to millions worldwide, often occurs outside legal frameworks – intensifying its human toll: unsafe working conditions, labor exploitation, child labor, and even human trafficking are all well-documented in countries such as Ghana, Colombia, and the Democratic Republic of Congo (Human Rights Watch, 2020; AP News, 2023).
In Congo’s Okapi Wildlife Reserve, for example, illegal mining has not only devastated the natural habitat but also funded armed militias and displaced entire communities (The New York Times, 2023).
Beyond the mining of metals, the sources of diamonds and other gemstones also leave a destructive footprint. Despite rising awareness of “blood diamonds”,many diamonds still reach the market through complex trade networks that obscure their origins. One attempt at oversight is the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) – involving 58 countries (including Israel, a founding member which issued the world’s first certificate in 2003). Nevertheless, even legally mined stones can involve community displacement, environmental damage, and subhuman labor conditions. The relentless demand for precious stones continues to drive incursions into protected lands and culturally or ecologically sensitive areas, further endangering both people and nature.
In response to these realities, a growing ethical movement is taking root within the jewelry world, alongside a deepening of artistic and intellectual engagement in academic and alternative spaces. Certifications such as Fairtrade and Fairmined aim to ensure transparent supply chains, fair labor conditions, and responsible sourcing methods. These systems require artisanal and small-scale mining organizations to operate legally and responsibly, and formally – protecting both the environment and those involved in the chain of production. Meanwhile, recycled metals are also gaining traction: recycled gold, for instance, can save up to 80% of energy consumption and significantly reduce greenhouse gas emissions (Vogue Business, 2023). In gemstone trade, lab-grown diamonds – created under controlled conditions without mining – offer a clean and traceable alternative.
Thus, a new approach to materials; to handwork; and to the notion of value is taking shape – an acknowledgment of the true cost of beauty, and of our capacity to reshape it. In a time of escalating climate crises and widening social inequality, the practice of jewelry-making becomes a field of political, social, and aesthetic action. Today’s jewelers do more than create adornments – they can forge a new alternative.
Sources:
COSH! (2023) – Author(s) not listed; published by COSH!
WWF (2022) – Report by WWF: Julian Smith and Jill Schwartz on gold mining and deforestation in the Amazon.
Human Rights Watch (2020) – Jo Becker, in the report The Hidden Cost of Jewelry.
AP News (2023) – Journalistic report on mercury poisoning in small-scale mining in Africa; author not listed.
CSIS (2023) – Farnsworth-Alvear, Ann & Rendon, Carlos, on illegal mining in Venezuela and Brazil.
Vogue Business (2023) – Sarah duPont, in the article The Case for Recycled Gold and Lab-Grown Diamonds.
The New York Times (2023) – Declan Walsh & Justin Kasereka, in an article on mining threats to protected reserves in Congo.
On the Kimberley Process – Kimberley Process: Ensuring Conflict-Free Diamonds Worldwide.
Interview with Suzi Ganche on being a finalist for the Susan Beech Grant. Susie Ganch, Susan Beech Mid-Career Grant Finalis (2017) , By Vicki Mason
The series consists of objects resembling fossils, corals and mountains, from which pieces of Jewellery- rings, pins, and lockets are roughly extracted. In response to the Interlaken Declaration of 5 November 2002 on the Kimberley process certification scheme for rough diamonds.
What makes a ring luxurious? Is it the size, the material, the design? A piece of jewelry that invites you to rethink & ask questions about social standards & the origins of the luxury jewelry, gold & diamond industry.
